Thursday, May 12, 2016

ALORS ...






We've arrived in Paris. Behind the blue door, our first foray into airbnb is quite the success - exactly where we wanted to be (well, that's a fairly obvious choice), up three rickety stepped floors (easily manageable and part of the 'vrai' Parisian experience at least for nine days), in a compact one bedroom flat with a comfy bed, terrific modern bathroom, kitchen and most of all - a washing machine!




It's cool and stormy with scattered showers. And endlessly wonderful.









MUNICH 2016 - VI






The next day after the ballet I was back for Tosca, the lowering sun doing its ribbons of gold thing inside this splendid house. I didn't choose Tosca; it chose me.

The first Tosca I saw had the late John Shaw gravelling out a thrillingly black Scarpia (a role he understudied with Gobbi). Shaw had a big career, and I wonder if we knew just how lucky we were to have him. When the crescendoing chorus parted to reveal him there in mine shaft black, and as black inside as out, I still remember the chills in the spine. Interestingly, his Covent Garden debut was as Rigoletto with the virtually unknown Joan Sutherland as his Gilda.

The last Tosca I remember was with Domingo at the Met in the Zeffirelli extravaganza and of which I recall little except the marvellous stage mechanics as (act 3) Mario runs up the stone stairs of a descending set to emerge into the dawn light of the new set above.

(Alert  - grumpy at best bitchy at worst comments to follow and n.b. everyone else seemed to love it and applauded wildly forever)

Looking at the cast list, you could be forgiven for thinking we scored second cast:

Callegari / Petrenko
Radvanosky / Harteros
de Leon / Kaufmann
Maestri/ Terfel

although I was particularly keen to hear Sondra Radvanosky after her huge success as Elizabeth in Roberto Devereux at the Met. She is, in case you missed it, the Met's upcoming Norma now that Ms Netrebko has withdrawn vocally unsuited to the role.

Either way, we would be saddled (as it turned out) with Luc Bondy's at times risible production. It didn't spoil the evening, in fact it's more than worthwhile to see concepts go off the rails. It's reassuring in a way. I assume this was to be an ugly Mussolini-esque anti-Zeffirelli statement. But burdened with

>  over-drawn caricatures e.g. a crippled scoliotic cardinal with hip dysplasia all but crawling to a Madonna being literally abused by a naughty naughty chief-of-police who later despite a room full of sluts needed to keep sticking his nose into Tosca'a boobs - are we seriously talking not enough sex instead of an insatiable lust for power; a limping, simpering, quivering nail chewing torture enjoying Spoletta; baddies with dark glasses inside - hello high school productions ....

>  tediously ugly sets which contributed little to the drama and sucked much out of it e.g a basement first act chapel of little purport other than the chance to have Angelotti (his stand-in anyway) scale down a rope dodging not scary at all searchlights but necessitating the steps and the painting be wheeled off stage to make room for the chorus who ambled in with no purpose other than the need to dress up and sing a big chorus; Scarpia's fascist apartment arranged with furniture like virgins at a country dance - backs to the wall - such that the action is so widely dispersed across the whole stage that at no stage is there anything even resembling tension; a vast 'isolationist' vacuum space for executions with a high parapet nearly in the wings where I suspect a lot of the house saw nary a 'leap' ....

>  some strange tempi e.g even the opening bars were so slow as to be mmm boring but that said, they played well and he did get some of big climaxes happening ...

Enough already. I thought Ms Radvanosky very fine, really very good and despite some silly girlie stuff in the first Act - she's a real time Prima Donna now, or so the Met audience say - her vocalism is a marvel : a lovely middle register, richly coloured, and a focused and penetrating top beautifully controlled. Her big number Vissi d'arte was deservedly well received - she'd capped it off with an endless mezzoforte - a brilliantly secure decrescendo followed by a crescendo even more forte than the beginning.

If anyone still wonders if this really is a shabby little shocker, they could do worse than go see this - except for the shocker bit.








Wednesday, May 11, 2016

MUNICH 2016 - V




It really is worth a visit.





Tuesday, May 10, 2016

MUNICH 2016 - IV






I went to the ballet. Which I don't often do. La Bayadere was on at the Bayerische Staatsoper, and centre row 8 was just fine, thank you very much.

Unlike our town, where for the most part they who go to the ballet are old ladies, mothers, aunts, daughters, nieces, the odd suffering husband and a smattering of male couples, here were handsome young men with their wives or girlfriends, handsome old men with thick well groomed grey hair with their wives, and yes of course there were pretty young girls who at the curtain calls bravoed and clapped and jumped up and down for ever as the principles came out again and again, and again.



There was indeed much colour and movement, a dash of circus, lovely cello and harp, and then eine pause. It was Act 2 when things got serious, and seriously beautiful.







MUNICH 2016 - III





Back to The Egyptian Museum in Munich. It sits underground - under the grass outside the School for Film and Television - in the 163 acre Kunstareal (Arts Precinct). The scale of this area and its ambitions and realisations belittles many other cities, and our (Sydney) puny attempts especially. No, we don't have the traditions, and certainly not the collections, but we seem to have neither the will nor the resistance to the false gods of crass commercialism.

Each visit brings a new focus. This caught my attention today ...


... high on the wall at the bottom of the entrance walkway. And you start to wonder what's new. And think nothing. All art is contemporary becomes has been becomes is.




And so to the head of the pharaoh Echnaton/Akhenaten (c 1330 BC) ...


... whose Queen was Nefertiti, whose legend is ever expanding, whose body is the subject of some fascinating medical speculations, and most of all who was inspired to attempt, albeit in vain, to instil in his people the radical concept of monotheism.  (*)


H was with me and we stood for ages as he told me Echnaton's story as the ancient head looked beyond time above us. For these moments every hint of the hardship's of travel vanish.

Not to mention the incredibly handsome Antinous, Hadrian's favourite. 




(*) Here is the beginning of some links to the Philip Glass opera of the same name.




Monday, May 9, 2016

MUNICH 2016 - II





Leave the sunbathers and Odeonplatz behind, and slip into the cool modern Kunsthalle München now holding a marvellous Joaquin Sorolla retrospective. Joaquin who? You'd not the first non-Spaniard to ask. He has his own gallery in Madrid.



Straddling the turn of the Century (1863 - 1923), orphaned by cholera, this beautiful painter is nicked "Spain's Master of Light". Early realism nudges the impressionism of the new century but not its cubist deconstructionism - there's a humanist beauty and depth of empathy in every exquisite detail, as he tells of the people, the sea, his family, and children, especially the children. And none so arresting as the deformed children of syphilitic parents shepherded into the sea - cleansed of apprehensions, gravity washed away - it's called Sad Inheritance - and now I find I was so stunned by it that the phone camera stayed in my pocket. A faint shadow of its impact is here. Unusually, the water in this painting was dark and cold, even unwelcoming, unlike the usual shimmer of sun and shallows, and that in itself seems to enhance the exhilaration and joy of these reticents.

I'll revisit this exhibition before we leave. These glimpses should give some idea as to why.



                                       (the oxen are helping pull the fishermen and their boat ashore)
















(a small section of 'the skipping rope')




That last painting was especially affecting with its innocence and nudity of the like our local puritans would take to with felt pens and faux christian ideals, and the gentleman staring at it was so transfixed that in the 15 minutes (at least) that I was in the room in which it hung he didn't for a second take his eyes off it, only changing perspective.




Sunday, May 8, 2016

MUNICH 2016





We've landed into a Munich bursting with spring. Crisp mornings evolve into warm afternoons, and the direct sun feels quite strong already. It really is a lovely easy city.



We started out, as is becoming a habit, taking the tram a few stops to Karolinenplatz ...




... for the short walk along BriennerStrasse past the Nazi Museum into Königsplatz, heading for the Glyptothek.

Strangely, earlier over a welcoming coffee H had unexpectedly brought out some old newspapers he has carefully stored. He eschews the Nazi Museum (although he did come with me on my second visit last year) but now mentions that perhaps sometime he might see if they are interested in some of these records.

While the city, and here I draw attention to Königsplatz, embraced THIS ...


                                                                     18 Nov 1933



... the banality runs side by side.



Is it just me that's there is still a hollow impossible to fill in these places of assembled murderers, the life sucked out? Or is it simply the scale of the place, a fatuous nod to power whoever wherever. Or perhaps it was just that it was Christi Hemmelfahrt (Ascension Thursday in my childhood Catholic calendar), as ludicrous a feast as one can imagine to be taken so seriously in this day and age.


Mein Gott - a search shows I've already rabbited on about this before. Memory ain't what it used to be, if sentiment is.

The Glyptothek, with its lovely courtyard and coffee and cake to shake of some jet lag, is exactly as was with old friends, somewhat familiar





except for some current vogue to mimic these treasures in stressed wood sculpture.