We went for the day, two hours each way through the damp green countryside fat with brown and white cows, and soft wispy clouds around the hilltops as we arrived. Second class fares return for two totalled 28 euro - 7 euro each way per person. A (Munich) pensioner can pay 60 euro a year to cover all transport up to 50 Km from Munich. As our (pensioner) friend said, referring mainly to the beauty of these places and the free music available, we (Germans) may pay a lot of tax, but we get a lot for it. Including the angst of the Greeks.
Salzburg was much lovelier than I ever expected, a real place, the day after the festival had opened. Later the skies cleared and the sun shafted all those postcard kodak places everyone has seen. Not too many cliché shots from me, but a few little reminders of this and that for later. I'll probably add more later.
We had lunch at the Blaue Ganz (Blue Goose) - porcini soup, crumbed chicken breast whose fame is well justified, with sauv-blanc from Graz. The loo was as smart and understated as much else. One could imagine piped music I suppose, but this was story reading in a soft gentle male voice coming from unseen speakers, and I heard two words that were especially suggestive - Tadzio und Maman.
Der Goldener Hirsch was a walk through and an unexpected chat with a waiter (blame the sauv-blanc), and Cafe Tomaselli had pungent coffee and disappointing cake.
The Mirabell Gardens were in full bloom.
The main cathedral was standing room only for a free concert - brass quartet; small male choir; small female choir; soprano and organ. There are four separate organs. It's all intensely Catholic.
Outside in the Cathedral square is the temporary seating for the annual opener - Jedermann - Hofmannsthal's version of Everyman. You know the ending.
