Sunday, July 22, 2012


We went for the day, two hours each way through the damp green countryside fat with brown and white cows, and soft wispy clouds around the hilltops as we arrived. Second class fares return for two totalled 28 euro - 7 euro each way per person. A (Munich) pensioner can pay 60 euro a year to cover all transport up to 50 Km from Munich. As our (pensioner) friend said, referring mainly to the beauty of these places and the free music available, we (Germans) may pay a lot of tax, but we get a lot for it. Including the angst of the Greeks.

Salzburg was much lovelier than I ever expected, a real place, the day after the festival had opened. Later the skies cleared and the sun shafted all those postcard kodak places everyone has seen. Not too many cliché shots from me, but a few little reminders of this and that for later. I'll probably add more later.

We had lunch at the Blaue Ganz (Blue Goose) - porcini soup, crumbed chicken breast whose fame is well justified, with sauv-blanc from Graz. The loo was as smart and understated as much else. One could imagine piped music I suppose, but this was story reading in a soft gentle male voice coming from unseen speakers, and I heard two words that were especially suggestive - Tadzio und Maman.

Der Goldener Hirsch was a walk through and an unexpected chat with a waiter (blame the sauv-blanc), and Cafe Tomaselli had pungent coffee and disappointing cake.

The Mirabell Gardens were in full bloom.

The old St Francis church was a calm retreat.

The main cathedral was standing room only for a free concert - brass quartet; small male choir; small female choir; soprano and organ. There are four separate organs. It's all intensely Catholic.

Outside in the  Cathedral square is the temporary seating for the annual opener - Jedermann - Hofmannsthal's version of Everyman. You know the ending.


Anonymous said...

Your flying visit reminded me of Der kleine Grenzverkehr, a charming novella by Erich Kästner (known mostly to English speakers as the author of "Emil and the Detectives."

The narrator and central character, Georg, wants to meet his friend Karl at the Salzburg festival in 1937. Karl is living in London and cannot return to Germany. Owing to currency restrictions Georg is not allowed to take more than 10 marks per month out of Germany without a permit. The permit doesn't come in time. So he lodges just over the border in Bad Reichenhall and takes the bus over every day. He spends the 10 marks in the first day on Mozart-kugeln and thereafter depends on his expat friend for funds. There is a misunderstanding on the first day because he waits at Café Glockenspiel (where he strikes up an acquaintance with the waitress because he doesn't have any money) whilst his friend is waiting at Café Tomaselli (where you were).

By the time the book was published, in 1938, the starting premiss of the book no longer applied. That's as expressly political as the book gets and amazingly a film version came out in 1943 (it has been refilmed since).

One piece of trivia I picked up from the book was that, prior to the Anschluss, Austrians drove on the left.

Don't neglect to go to Bamberg!

Scott said...

I wanted to mention how much I've enjoyed the photos of the trip. The landscape and architecture,but also the candid ones with people. I especially like the one of the couple holding hands,heading off into the hedgerow. Love and friendship.

wanderer said...

There's lots there for later M, and it will be that much more meaningful; thanks for that effort. Deep in Franconia now. Bamberg still on the itinerary, though likely a day trip.

Pleased you are with me Scott. I am way behind in posts and struggling but knowing someone is enjoying the little I do manage to get up is extra motivation.